The plan was to travel as a family of 4 to England via Brussels (as the Paris route was not recommended in this year of the Olympics, etc. Furthermore, it was already sold out before booking platforms were open – but that’s another story, worth another blog).
And while the journey itself only started on July 1st, its preparation took us way longer and was much more of a hassle as to actually get on the trains. The latter, as a spoiler, went quite well. While booking processes both of accommodations and foremost travels was the hardest part.
We started in Vienna with the night train NJ50490 of the ÖBB to Brussels Midi. We had an #Interrail Global Pass for four days (which, btw, no-one wanted to see or check, damn). First, the train wouldn’t turn up at Vienna Hauptbahnhof, so we started with a 40’ delay, which we could take in again by simply driving faster. Nevertheless, german border controls ate up again what we regained. But as the night just set us asleep, we couldn’t care less.
I woke up at 6 am, cruising along the Rhine, grazing Cologne and finally arriving in Brussels almost in time, at about 10 o’clock. Waiting for our passage underneath the #Channel with the Eurostar. Couldn’t say I wasn’t nervous.
After a short stroll through the rain and the quarters around Gare du Midi, we checked in easily at the border controls and again, no-one wanted to see on which ticket we’re actually traveling. The only thing that counted was the seat reservations.
Using Eurostar is like a slight memory of how it felt to be at an airport. The same duty-free shit, restless travellers in uncomfortable seats waiting for something to happen. And when your train is called, everybody jumps up, takes his belongings and rushes to the gates. And it’s incredible, how many people fit in one Eurostar train!
With almost 300km/h, we rush into the tube between Calais and Dover, fenced by European and British border control on both sides, and after half an hour underneath the sea, we reappear on english soil, heading to London, our final destination for day 2. Everything went well so far. We’ll stay here for 5 days.
Two things I learn here: First, London metropolitan transportation services have a clever and easy way of ticketing. You just tap in (and out) with your bank card, and when you reach the cap of the price of a day ticket, the system simply stops counting.
Second: though the city has a congestion charge for private vehicles since 2003, it didn’t change a thing. In contrary, it all gets worse and worse. Even the public transport service (except the tube) suffer from that. Obviously, people rather pay than giving up their cars.
But the rising numbers of bicyclists give hope.
Inland routes. London to Bath/Somerset, with @greatwesternrailway, one of the numerous companies that run the British railway services. Booking (on Trainline) was easy, and the trains were right on time. I only wonder why they are operating on Diesel instead of electricity, though it’s all flat here and the region quite densely populated.
Reason is (as I learned later): flooding often undermines the tracks which makes electricity too risky.
Next day, we traveled from Bath all the way down to Penzance/Cornwall, which marks the least southwestern station of the Kingdom. A long ride with a stop at every dunghill. And a funny situation at our change in Bristol:
The train in Bath was a little late, but we had 20’ for the change, so no worries. But the train even slowed down, so we were getting nervous for our connection (and reservations…). When we arrived in Bristol Temple Meads, it’s only 2’ left, and we urged to get off the train.
Only to learn from the conductor that it’s going to be the same train to get on.
In Cornwall, we wondered how to get around, as we had no car available. I admit, it was a little bit of a gamble. But Penzance has a lot of opportunities to enter to the coast and (marvellous) beaches as well as to other little towns like St. Ives or Truro etc. And if the weather is nice, it’s definitely one of the most ravishing coastlines I’ve ever seen. We were sad when we had to go back eastwards three days later. First to London, and then on the same day via Eurostar to Brussels, all in one turn. Again, I was anxious because of delays, cancellations, whatsoever.
But again, everything worked out fine. Except the dullness for the kids during the trip, it was a pleasant experience to see how easy train traveling can be. We arrived in London Paddington and swiftly jumped over to St. Pancras International Station (what a name!), with its sumptuous luxury and imperial calmness. Culture of railway held high – a cathedral of transportation that no airport or highway can outdo.
A Eurostar staff member helped us to get on board, as there was something wrong with our reservations (at home I found out that we didn’t have one :-[] )
We safely arrived in Brussels, Gare du Midi, and found our way to the nearby hotel on the same routes that we walked already 10 days ago.
I went seeing the EU buildings at the East side of town and found them in peace, like an abandoned funfair with tourists strolling among the silver towers and flags. And I left a silent message to the new people there in charge, in the parliament and commission.
There was now only one last trip to handle. And I somehow felt that the whole trip can only be called successful if this works out fine as well. I wouldn’t doubt it, but this time it’s the Deutsche Bahn. Two #ICE in a row, with a change in Frankfurt, this could be an organisational master- or disasterpiece.
When we arrived at the station in the morning, though, the train already waited for us. A lot of passengers indeed, but all reservations found their proper guests. And when the engine started rolling just in time, you could hear a collective sigh of relieve in the coach. Also our conductor was a sweetheart of his kind who even let a guest book his ticket live on Trainline instead of charging him a penalty fee.
But shortly before Cologne („always Cologne!“, one shouted), he had to announce that the train will stop at central station because of technical issues.
Upon my personal request, though, he assured we’ll get the train in Frankfurt, as another ICE is waiting right for us at the same platform.
And what happened then was a sheer miracle of organisation, communication and stoicism.
We all got off the train and entered the other one in front of us. Within 10’, all passengers found their seats (the same actual as before), and the train started as scheduled, with a delay of 15’ compared to the previous one.
The driver was serious. We rushed through the countryside of middle Germany, with almost 300km/h, and when my kids asked if we make to Frankfurt in time, we were already approaching the airport station. Incredible! We arrived in Central Station even earlier than the original scheduled train. Chapeau to the personnel, the driver and the Deutsche Bahn.
The rest, we thought, was a Kinderspiel. One last train, again an ICE, taking us all the way down to Oberbayern in one ride.
But we were wrong. In Munich Hauptbahnhof, the conductor announced that the train has to wait for its new crew to come. It should be coming from Salzburg, but yet there’s no information of its whereabouts. 40’, they presume.
We think about taking another train, there many going off southwards.
But also they are out of service.
We learn that there was a tragic accident in a station between Salzburg an Munich which interrupts the whole traffic. We are doomed to stay right where we are, in a stalemate of schedules and uncertainty.
But time goes on, and after an hour, the wheels are rolling again. Police, firemen and ambulance quickly cleared the scene so all is in motion back to business. And after almost 10 hours, we arrived happy and sound at our final destination.
What we learn is:
If you’re flexible and kind of prepared; if you’re open for talks and willing to accept karma; if you like to hack yourself through booking sites and talk to friendly english railway officers (only to learn that you cannot book a ticket unless you have a British citizenship, address and bank account); if you love beautiful station buildings (big an small); and if you want just to sit down and read, sleep or play while traveling; you should do this as we did. Well recommended!
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